Looks- both exterior and interior, the overall design, room.

Electrical problems, transmission problems.

This car first grabbed my by its looks. It was sitting in the lot and it stood out from all the rest. I was shocked to learn it was a '95. Its curves and overall appeal were an instant selling point for me. After taking it on a SMALL test drive, I was sold. My grandfather used to own a Chrysler dealership, so I've been around them my whole life-that's all the family drove. I'm going neutral with my rating. I can't decide if it was worth the money or not. The "Check Engine" light constantly comes on, and the dealership I bought it from said it needed a new Transmission Control Module, or a TCM. This cost me around $400. It still comes on nonetheless. Other lights flash from time to time on the dash, but I can overlook this...I guess. Once you start it up and put it into drive, it just sits there for about twenty seconds, sometimes more or less, and then with a huge jolt of power, kicks into gear. This is very annoying when you are trying to pull out of a parking lot, and so are one hundred other people behind you. The brakes often seem to brake harder than I push them, and when I slow down below 10 mph, it kicks, sometimes very nosily and hard, into first gear. While driving at high speeds, it preforms very well. I only seem to have problems when I de-ecellerate. Tonight I turned onto my road, which starts out as a very large incline, and as I began to start up the hill, the engine kindof froze for a second, the check engine light came on (Big surprise), and then it jumped back into gear after two seconds of being stalled. It was a new experience for me. This car is full of surprises. Most of them are lemons, but if you are going to buy one, make sure it has some type of warranty! This is the only bad Chrysler I've driven.

Styling, handling, pick-up, factory stereo, roomy

Brakes, road noise, brakes

I wish I could continue my longstanding relationship with Chrysler. My family has had Chrysler products for 20 years without unusual problems. I replaced my 1992 Plymouth Acclaim (140,000 trouble free miles) with this new Cirrus LXi. The brakes are without a doubt, the worst part of the car. I almost have to lift my butt off of the seat to stand on the brake pedal enough for the car to stop. I think it has been all right for 17K. I won't try to replace this car with the Sebring sedan though.

Similar Products Used:

1992 Plymouth Acclaim, 2003 Sebring Convertible, 2000 PT Cruiser

We have owned this car for about 2 years now... the car was purched at around 2,800 - 3,000 dollars and at about... 120,000 miles... the car still runs great and it at 240,000 miles. The only problem that we have encountered in the driver-side rear brake caliper needed replacement.

nice appearance

the electrical system completely sucks

in 2002 we started having weird electrical probs...while driving it one day the acceleration started slowing and the gas pedal really didnt do anything, so i went for the brake to slow it, and power brakes were out. then the dash lights started dimming and getting brighter, and the headlights got very dim and then got brighter. after i finally got it slowed (no thanks to the loss of power breaks and power steering) the engine was on the verge of stalling, BARELY keeping itself alive. $900 later the body control module was replaced. that day i pick it up and the alarm starts going off when i put the key in the door to unlock it...$200 later the problem was still never fixed. the "check engine" light randomly appears and stays on. then tonight the same problem as a year ago, the power failing, the motor nearly dying, the dash lights dimming, the check engine and cruise control lights flickering on and off, like something out of a movie. it seems many people on the net have had the SAME exact car as i did...anyone that can help, it would be GREATLY appreciated. by the way...never buy a cirrus....

Roomy, Nice company sound system

all of the parts are faulty

I hate this car. I purchased this car February of this year. In the middle of the summer my air condition need repair the compressor and because they had updated this part and cost me 200.00 more than what it should have cost me. Than I started having this problem the end of August where I was doing 70mph on 64E and my car decides to shift to neutral the RPM's racing to 5000 and I'm slowing down in the middle of on coming traffic. Very scary especially when you have to children in carseats in the backseats. That problem when on they said I needed oxygen sensors, transmission flush,an idling pulley, than my car one night ran hot which caused my water pump to bust, both my head gaskets where blown, 14 intake vowels where taken out and much more after sitting in the driveway for 2 months it got fixed. But no one knows why my car still switches to neutral and my RPM's race in the middle of traffic. What's scary is you never know when it's going to go. I think Chrysler should be ashamed of there self's they don't even know what's wrong with it, but apparently they know something is wrong with it because get a clue the discontinued the model. I'm thinking of suing the Manufacterer.

The radio, the sliding sun roof

Driveablility is poor, tire problems are very costly

Never again will I buy a Chrysler. We bought it at 8,000 miles and at 11k the battery corroded. At 28k we needed 4 new tires. Garage said all tires were completely worn from the inside (under the care) to the out. At 29k we needed another new tire (also worn from the inside out) and now at 30k, it needs two new back tires once again. The first time it need all four tires I had it alligned. The second time it needed a back tire, I had all four wheels alligned. I've taken it to three garages and none of them can figure out why the tires keep going bad. The only thing they can figure is a factory default in how the tires sit. Not to mention the brakes howl and moan loudly, and the car shudders and shakes when decelerating.

Similar Products Used:

None

looks good on the outside, held up pretty good through 2 fender benders, costly repairs for little things though

Um, see above. Cheap leather! And the console armrest thing is VERY cheap, and rickety

Okay, I beg anyone considering to buy a used Chrysler (or even a new one, from what I am reading from other reviews), please please please don't. We bought our Cirrus LXI(you know, the supposedly fancy version w/V6, leather interior, power everything and CD) in Jan 2000, with 60k miles. Well, by 70k, we already had weird electrical probs and spontaneous door locks. At 75k, the CD player had a strange gray smoke coming from the opening for the CD, needless to say, its fried. Also, the power "everything" is a joke, b/c my windows and seats all sound like they are on their last leg when in use. The leather decides to split on its on, and the V6 is hardly worth mentioning. Okay, now for the clincher....which I know you've read before...our car is dead in the driveway, needing another transmission...which will make #5. We have decided to not put another dime in the rapidly depreciating piece of junk. And lets not forget about that check engine light that you can never get to go away, or that oil light that appears when its in the mood.

Similar Products Used:

87 Ford Escort, 1991 Dodge Dynasty, 2002 Toyota Corolla. All of the above I would rather have than this piece of wasted money and hassle.

Power when rpm reaches 6. goes good at 80 85 mph. Good radio system. good Heat heats up in like 5 min on cald days.

trunk lever to open trunk on floor on drivers side when trunk is closed the lever that allows trunk to be opend is pushed down by force of closing trunk. And disables the lever.

I have a chrysler cirrus lx and it runs great and never had problems with it one time one of the belts let go and another time the check engine light came on and went away in less than 3 days took it to the dealer and said it was minor and it coud be fixed. it was the sesnsor for the gas filter. great car has a block heater for the winter so it starts and has a remote controol start and remote lock and unlock.

Similar Products Used:

NONE!!!

Power when rpm reaches 6. goes good at 80 85 mph. Good radio system. good Heat heats up in like 5 min on cald days.

trunk lever to open trunk on floor on drivers side when trunk is closed the lever that allows trunk to be opend is pushed down by force of closing trunk. And disables the lever.

I have a chrysler cirrus lx and it runs great and never had problems with it one time one of the belts let go and another time the check engine light came on and went away in less than 3 days took it to the dealer and said it was minor and it coud be fixed. it was the sesnsor for the gas filter. great car has a block heater for the winter so it starts and has a remote controol start and remote lock and unlock.

Similar Products Used:

NONE!!!

Neturial droops are possible and don't hurt the car I have done 30 myself at 4,000rpm and still have had no problems with the car. Works well to beat Bmws hahah. Hint go from N-L huge boost be carfuil though start rpm's to high and you'll just spin your tires.

I have found the turning to be a bit on the week side interior can use some extream modifications, and tire choice makes a huge difference.

This is a very good car. Some people have come to believe that the cirrus has no acceleration, I beg to differ with them. I have beat numerious 5.0 Mustangs, Bmws, Pontiac's and so on. The trick is To use your gears that you are given. L/low is your best gear drop it into low, and watch yourself beat a mustang. L will take you to 80 km/h in first gear then drop it into 3 your sport gear as said in the drivers manuial when shifting into three shif at 4,500rpm DON'T take your foot off the gas keep it floored shifting at 3 will take 2 sec for the onboad computer to realise that it needs to drop the rpm you'll find your second gear will go to 110km/h. It's now up to you. Leave it in 3rd and ride that all the way to 190km/h fule cut off at 5,500rpm or if you feel like conserving some gas and loosing some power put it into drive and have fule cut off hit at 185km/h at 4,000rpm. Note car redlines at 6,500rpm. Follow this and your car will run 5.8-6.2sec 0-60mph better than the gay 7-7.5sec 0-60mph. For standard cars they think they have you beat because they can just pop the clutch haha yea right you got something better. put car into low and put your left foot on the break and right foot on the gas put break to the floor and hold gas down to about 2,500 thats when you will feel the car start to move forward or hold the gas until you fell the car start to move let off buy about 100rpm so it stays still when the light go's green or someone drops there hands take your foot off the break and floor it small tire spin will occure but no where near the standards spin and you'll be in second gear doing 110 if you follow the method above before the fool hits second himself. ENJOY THE LAUGHS YOU GET FROM THESE TRICKS OF MINE PEACE! Theres no better feeling then smoking a $50,000 325i Bmw automatic.